Board and Batten - Home With Stefani (2024)

I’m giving our guest bedroom a makeover under $500!! Since I’m on a budget I have a few DIY projects to do in the bedroom. This DIY board and batten accent wall is inexpensive and it makes a huge statement!! There are a lot of ways you can customize this project to make it your own and fit your own space.

TOOLS

LUMBER LIST

CUT LIST

This lumber & cut list is for the board & batten wall dimensions below.

This post contains affiliate links. If you decide to purchase from one of the links, I will receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Thank you for your support!

Cost: Lumber: $87 Paint: $16

**You could make this project less expensive by using unprimed boards, or by using a 4′ x 8′ MDF sheet that you rip into strips using the table saw.

STEP 1: Make a plan

Sketch out your wall on a piece of paper and make a plan of how you want your board and batten to look. Below is a picture of the sketch that I made to plan out & get measurements for my board and batten wall!

STEP 2: Remove baseboard

You may want to replace your baseboard depending on the type of baseboard you have. Test out a vertical board against your existing baseboard to see how they match up. If you want a nice, seamless transition I recommend using a new 1″ x 3″ or 1″ x 4″ board for your baseboard! It’s okay if your new baseboard isn’t the same height as your existing baseboard (see my baseboard picture below).

If you’re removing your baseboard: Use a utility knife to score the caulk on your baseboard. Then take a pry bar to carefully pry the trim off your wall. Make sure to remove any leftover nails as well.

STEP 3: Cut & install hardboard

I used these 1/8″ hardboard panels to cover the texture on my walls. If you don’t have textured walls you don’t need to use hardboard. Even if you do have textured walls you don’t have to use this hardboard and you can place your boards straight on the wall. Using this hardboard though will allow your paint to go on so much smoother and it will look a lot more professional! The 4′ x 8′ hardboard panels were only about $8 each from Home Depot.

I had Home Depot cut my hardboard panels to size. You will want to make sure to cut your panels so that the seams are covered by your vertical boards. See the top of the picture below on how I laid out my 1/8″ hardboard panels and 1″ x 3″ boards so that the seams were covered.

Make sure to remove any outlet or light switch covers.

Use a good amount of liquid nails on the back of your 1/8″ hardboard, place it on the wall and distribute weight all over the panel so the glue adheres. Use your level to make sure the panels are level on your wall. Secure it to the wall using brad nails (only nail the very outside edges of your hardboard so that the nail holes will be covered by your boards.

I had to notch out a rectangle for the outlet on our wall. Take a measurement on your wall and transfer it to your 1/8″ hardboard. Draw a rectangle for the outlet and drill a hole in each corner. Use a jig saw to notch out the rectangle.

STEP 4: Install top & bottom horizontal boards

In order for your new baseboard to fit, you may have to notch your existing baseboard on the left and right wall (see picture below). Make a pencil mark on your existing baseboard where it needs to be cut, and cut the baseboard using a multi tool.

Secure your boards to the wall with liquid nails and your brad nailer.

For the top horizontal board get a measurement either from the ceiling or from the floor on where you want your top board to be. Once you nail in one end, use a level to level out the board, then put nails in the rest of the board to secure it to the wall

STEP 5: Install vertical boards

Make a measurement on your top horizontal piece on where each vertical board needs to go (see picture below). Get a vertical measurement from the baseboard to the top board (all of your vertical boards may have slightly different measurements). Once your vertical boards are cut, dry fit them in place to verify they fit.

Use your level to verify that your vertical board is straight. Then, use liquid nails and your brad nailer to secure each board to the wall.

You may have to notch around an outlet or light switch. I used my jig saw to notch the board around my outlet.

STEP 6: Install top ledge piece

Use liquid nails and your brad nailer to secure the 1″x3″ ledge piece to your top horizontal trim piece. I had to use 3 of my scrap boards to make the 131 1/2″ ledge.

STEP 7: Fill nail holes

Fill all nail holes and flat joints where your vertical boards meet your horizontal boards. If any nails are sticking out, you may need to use a hammer and a nail set to pound in the nails.

STEP 8: Sand

I used 320 grit sandpaper to sand off all of the excess wood filler. I took the same sand paper to lightly go over every board before painting.

STEP 9: Caulk

Before caulking be sure to vacuum all the dust and wipe the wall with a damp rag. For a seamless & professional finish, caulk every seam with white paintable caulk.

When caulking next to a wall I like to tape off the wall leaving a little gap. Put a bead of caulk down the seam and then wipe the line with a wet finger. Remove the tape and you have a perfect clean line! For all the interior seams I didn’t use tape because it will all be painted over anyway.

STEP 10: Prime & Paint!

Prime and paint your board and batten wall your color of choice and enjoy!! I used pre primed boards, so I only needed to prime the brown hardboard. I used Behr paint in the color Creek Bend.