Board and Batten Tutorial - Love Grows Wild (2024)

Board and Batten Tutorial - Love Grows Wild (1)

The complete guide to adding board and batten to your home! Keep reading for a full tutorial, supply list, and our best tips for giving your home a beautiful upgrade.

Board and Batten Tutorial - Love Grows Wild (2)
Board and Batten Tutorial - Love Grows Wild (3)

The big day is here! Today I get to share with you our experience ofadding board and batten to our living room/dining room. If youwatched our video tour a few weeks back and follow along on Instagram, you’ve been seeing sneak peeks of this big project for weeks now, and I know you’ve been waiting to see how we did it all! I finally cleaned up all the sawdust and paint cans to snap a few pictures for you guys, so let’s dive right into the tutorial.

We decided toboard and batten our walls to: a) add some architectural detail and b) lighten up the bottom half of the wall while leaving the top half with some color. It took my husband and I about 8 or 9 days (working on and off) to do both the living room and dining room from the first cut of wood to the last coat of paint. If you wanted to just do one focal wall in a room, I would imagine this could be easily completed in just a day or two, but we did the entire space for a BIG impact!

Supplies needed:

1/4″ MDF cut into 4″ wide x 4′ long pieces (for the battens)
1/4″ MDF cut into 2″ wide x 4′ long pieces (for the top ledge)
cove moulding (we used 9/16″ x 1 3/4″ pine)
miter saw
brad nailer
level
tape measure
liquid nails
paintable caulk
caulking tool
paper towels
spackling paste
putty knife
sanding block
primer
paint
paint brush
paint roller

Notes:

Okay, I wanted to go over a few things before we get started. We went with 1/4″ MDF for two reasons: 1) It’s economical. We ended up using almost 14 – 2’x4′ sheets of MDF at $5.97, which only cost us $83.58 for the entire living and dining room. 2) We didn’t want to rip out and replace our existing baseboards, so we went with the slim 1/4″ MDF which is almost exactly the same width as the top of our baseboards. If you want your board and batten to be deeper and more defined, go with 1/2″ MDF and either replace your existing baseboards to match the battens OR try this trick I saw fromTeal and Lime.

Sheets of 1/4″ MDF can be harder to find, so call around to your local hardware stores and make sure they carry it before you go. Home Depot had 2’x4′ sheets, and they cut them down into 4″ wide planks while we were there. Having them cut the MDF is a HUGE time saver, in my opinion!

We finished the top of our board and batten with a little ledge made from MDF and cove moulding. I LOVE the cove moulding detail, but it is on the pricier side (we paid anywhere from $7.29-$11.84 per 8′ section) and can be a pain to cut your corners with. We’re super happy with how ours turned out, but if you want to go with a less expensive and easier option, buy quarter round instead.

Instructions:
Step One – Install the board and batten

First, install the top horizontal board. Our battens (vertical boards) were 4′ long, so we measured 4′ up from the top of the baseboards and used a level to make sure our top board was perfectly straight. I recommend applying liquid nails to the back of the boards and using a brad nailer to attach the board to the wall.

Next, add your vertical boards underneath the top board. Again, you’ll want touse a level, liquid nails, and the brad nailer. The hardest part of the whole process is figuring out your spacing between battens. I used this great tutorial from Remodelaholic, which gives detailed instructions for spacing, but here’s the basic equation I used:

Take your total wall length and divide that by the approximate spacing you would like between the battens. That number will be how many spaces you have on your wall. Add 1 to your number of spaces to get the number of battens on the wall. Now multiply your batten width by the number of battens. Subtract that number from your total wall length. Divide that number by the number of spaces you calculated earlier, and THAT number will be your exact spacing between each batten.

For example:
100″ (total wall length) / 20″ (approximate spacing) = 5 (spaces)
5 (spaces) + 1 = 6 (battens)
4″ (batten width) x 6 (battens) = 24″ (total batten width)
100″ (total wall length) – 24″ (total batten width) = 76″ (wall length minus the battens)
76″ (wall length minus the battens) / 5 (spaces) = 15.2″ (spacing between each batten)

If you’re doing multiple walls, the spacing willvary slightly on each wall, but it won’t be noticeable. Our spacing fluctuated from about 15 1/2″ – 17″.

Step Two – Add the top ledge and moulding

Install the moulding flush with the top of the horizontal boards using the brad nailer. Then use a small bead of liquid nails and the brad nailer to install the 2″ wide MDF on top, creating a small ledge.

Step Three – Caulk edges and spackle nail holes

Once everything isinstalled, you’ll want to caulk alledges where the boards meet the wall. I find that using a caulking tool (like the one listed in the supplies) makes this job much faster, cleaner, and easier. Then use a spackling paste to fill in all your nail holes and seams between the boards. Once dry, sand the spackle down to a smooth finish.

Step Four – Prime and paint

You’ll need to clean all thebattens and walls first before you paint. I used a vacuum to suck up all the dust first, then wiped everything down with a damp rag. Apply at least one coat of primer, then finish with your choice of paint. We used Kilz primer and Valspar’s Du Jour on the board and batten portion of the wall, and Valspar’s Woodlawn Colonial Gray on top.

To give you an idea of price, this project cost us about $190 in MDF and trim, another $40 in miscellaneous supplies (caulk, spackle, etc.), plus the cost of paint. We already had some paint and primer on hand, so webought less than 2 gallons for this project. That’s under $300 for a HUGE transformation of our entire living room and dining room!

It is SO much brighter in here now with the lighterpaint, and the board and batten detail really brings the room to life. I cannot wait to show you more of this space in the next couple weeks! You are not even going to recognize this room when we’re all done.

Tell me what you think!

Do you like the board and batten? Does it make the room feel brighter? I’d love to hear your thoughts! If you have any questions, just leave me a comment below!

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Feeling inspired? Check out these project ideas:

Easy Paint-Dipped Basket

Mint Desk Makeover

DIY Painted Ikat Art

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Board and Batten Tutorial - Love Grows Wild (2024)

FAQs

How hard is board and batten? ›

Board and batten is one of our favorite, easy DIY projects. It's completely beginner-friendly and it makes a big impact in any room, entry, or hallway.

How far apart should I place board and batten? ›

The spacing of the vertical battens will depend on the width of your wall. It's best to space them evenly, about 10-12 inches apart, but they don't have to be exact. For example, if your wall is 100 inches wide, you'll install a 2-inch board on either side, then have 96 inches left to fill.

Do board and batten need to be nailed to studs? ›

If you're using thin, lightweight lumber, you won't need to stress about it. However, for everything else, it's a good idea to attach your boards to the studs wherever possible. If you can't find a wall stud, use wood glue/liquid nails and a nail that's long enough to secure the wood to the wall.

What is the disadvantage of batten board? ›

Vinyl Board and Batten Siding

The color and design versatility of vinyl siding make it an aesthetically pleasing siding material for all home styles. However, vinyl board and batten siding is less durable compared to other siding options. In the course of high winds and intense storms, it is more susceptible to cracks.

Why is board and batten so expensive? ›

At $4 to $21 per square foot, cypress is the most expensive board and batten siding material. This is because it's in such high demand. It's a strong wood in the face of the elements and has a 40-year lifespan when properly maintained, but it's also very easy to cut and install.

Do you use a brad nailer for board and batten? ›

In order to attach, I first glued each board with liquid nails for extra security, and then I nailed the pieces in with a Brad Nailer. I highly recommend using a brad nailer, so the nails are almost invisible and it has a more seamless and high-quality look to it. I used 2 inch brad nails.

What is the cheapest way to do board and batten siding? ›

Fiber cement is the cheapest material for board and batten siding. It costs around $0.75 to $5 per square foot only. Fiber cement is a mixture of three different materials. Essentially, it is made by combining wood cellulose, sand, and cement.

Do you caulk board and batten? ›

Once all the boards are secured on the wall, caulk all the edges. Start at one end and work in a continuous direction. Apply pressure to the trigger or tube and fill the gap between the wall and trim with an even bead of caulk. Then, drag a finger along the edge to seal the joint.

What is the best height for board and batten? ›

While the height of board and batten is a matter of personal preference, a good rule of thumb is to place the height either above or below the center of the wall. For our eight-foot wall, we are installing board and batten at a height of five feet.

What is the most common width for board and batten? ›

The most common arrangement uses 1x10 boards and 1x2 or 1x3 batten. You can also use 1x8 or 1x12 boards and 1x4 battens. To seal out moisture, the boards should be in sound condition and free of open knots, and the battens should lap at least 3/4 inch onto the boards on both sides.

What size furring strips for board and batten? ›

I researched both the style and technique and decided the board and batten style would work best for my house. Article contains affiliate links. After determining how much wood I would need, I headed to Lowes to pick some up. I used pine 1x4s for the horizontal pieces and 1×3 furring strips for the verticals.

Is board and batten hard to maintain? ›

Low Maintenance: Unlike wood siding that may require more frequent upkeep, board and batten style made with fiber cement needs minimal maintenance.

Is board and batten strong? ›

Its unusual vertical lines produce an eye-catching texture that goes well with farmhouses and modern kinds of architecture. Durability: Crafted from high-quality materials like fiber cement, board and batten siding boasts exceptional durability.

Is board and batten siding easy to install? ›

Traditional board and batten siding uses wide planks (boards) with narrower pieces (battens) fastened over the gaps between boards to cover the seams. It's a relatively easy installation process done in a day with the right materials and an efficient plan.

Does board and batten make a room feel bigger? ›

Does board and batten make a room look smaller or larger? Whenever making decorating choices, it is always important to consider whether what you are doing will expand your room visually or make it look more cramped. Board and batten walls definitely make a room look larger.

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