Drying and Firing Process << Bill Rowe's Pottery Page (2024)

1. Drying

As plastic clay dries, it shrinks 5%.

Very plastic clay shrinks 8% as it dries.

Shrinkage is slow and can create problems.

The average plastic clay is 35 parts water to 100 parts clay.

(a mass of clay is 25% water)

As humidity falls (in the atmosphere), below 100%, drying takes place. If an object is even, it will dry relatively evenly. If it is too thick, cracks may occur.

Drying clay is always accompanied by shrinkage. As water leaves, the particles move closer together. Fine particle clay shrinks more than large particle clay because of the presence of more water.

Drying shrinkage is always related to the grain structure of a clay and also to plasticity. When the water has evaporated from between the particles and they are all in contact, drying shrinkage is complete. This is called leather-hard. The object will still be damp and drying is not complete but the drying will not cause further shrinkage because the particles are in contact.

To avoid warping and cracking, plastic clay must be dried slowly and evenly. Drying is improved by the presence of any sort of non-plastic particles. They take up water and furnish pores for the water to escape in drying. Clays which contain a large percentage of large, nonclay particles are called "open bodies". Grog (having been fired) undergoes no more shrinkage. Additions of grog decrease overall shrinkage. Flint and Feldspar also promote drying and decrease shrinkage.

For throwing a plastic clay, non-plastic materials must be held to a minimum.

A piece of dried clay will contain some free water because atmosphere has humidity. Drying is actually completed in the kiln. At the boiling point (100oC) all uncombined water will be evaporated and clay will then be completely dry. Dry clay bodies vary in dry strength. The more plastic a clay is, the more strength it will develop in the dry state. Ball clay is 6 -7 times stronger than Georgia Kaolin.

See Also
Clay

2. Early Stage to Firing

Drying and water-smoking first change completion in drying. This must be done slowly of formation of 100oC steam will occur within the body and may cause it to burst.

The next change is at 350oC. Chemically combined water begins to be driven off. (This is part of the molecular structure of clay and is unaffected under 350oC.) This release of sudden steam must be done slowly or object will crack.

At 500oC, the clay is completely dehydrated, no longer slake or disintegrate in water, has lost all plasticity. It may not be reclaimed and used again. An irreversible change has taken place - dehydration - this is not accompanied by any shrinkage. At 500oC, the clay is more fragile now than it was when put into the kiln.

3. Oxidation

Oxidation is not complete until the temperature has reached about 900oC and the organic matter has been removed. (matter, such as carbon, inorganic carbonated and sulphates.) The object must have sufficient oxygen and not be fired too rapidly. If oxidation is not completed, it may cause bloating in glaze fire. As firing advances, the dissociation point of the compounds are reached and the carbon or sulphur is driven off.

4. Quartz Inversion

All clay contain quarts, either naturally or in the form of added: free silica. When temperature advances, the crystals of quartz rearrange themselves into a slightly different order. The rearrangements are accompanied by slight changes in volume. When 573oC us reached, quartz crystals undergo a change known as a change from alpha to beta quartz. This is marked by a 2% increase in volume. Reversible upon cooking, the quartz changes from beta to alppha and resumes its original crystalline form and size. This change of volume, though slight, must be done slowly to avoid damage to the ware. A large percentage of ware which comes from the kiln cracked is damaged by either too rapid heating or too rapid cooling at this critical temperature. In uneven firing kilns, one must by very careful with large pieces.

5. Vitrification

As temperature increases beyond red heat, vitrification occurs. Hardening, tightening and finally, partial glassification of clay. Vitrfication gives the fired clay its characteristic hard, dense, durable and rocklike properties. It is accompanied by shrinkage in the clay. Vitrification proceeds gradually as temperature increases and becomes increasingly hard, up to a point of melting and deformation. Hardening results from the melting of some of the components in the clay, in part, those components we consider impurities, iron oxide, etc.(clay has numerous oxides) it tends to fuse gradually, impurities (as temp) melt in small beads of glass, soaks into surrounding areas, binding particles like a glue and act as a solvent in promoting further fusion. If firing is carried on clay would reach a liquid state and when cooled, be glass. We don't do this.

Common red clays with high % iron and other impurities, have a relatively low melting point. The tendency is to melt at cone8 to cone11, we use them as slip glazes. (these glazes are made up of fusible clay) or can become a major part of a glaze.

The strength of fired clay is due, not only to glassification but also to the formation of new crystalline growths within the clay body.Particularly the growth of Mullite crystals. Mallite (alumina silicate) is characterized by a long needlelike crystal. Mulite crystals tend to grow at higher temperatures depending upon their composition. Common red clay (many impurities) fires hard and dense at 100oC; melts to liquid at 1250oC. Kaolin will still be porous at 1250oC and may not melt in excess of 1800oC.

Further shrinkage occurs during vitrification, due to the diminished size of particles as they approach fusion and the closer arrangement of particles in their glassy structures (Matrix). Firing shrinkage of clay is usuallly about the same as drying shrinkage. The total may be 10%, depending on the degree of vitrification.

When objects are overfired, they melt, bloat, expand and grow in size like a cake because of trapped gasses.

Drying and Firing Process << Bill Rowe's Pottery Page (2024)

FAQs

Drying and Firing Process << Bill Rowe's Pottery Page? ›

Drying is actually completed in the kiln. At the boiling point (100oC) all uncombined water will be evaporated and clay will then be completely dry. Dry clay bodies vary in dry strength. The more plastic a clay is, the more strength it will develop in the dry state.

What is the firing process in pottery? ›

The firing process turns raw clay into ceramic through high-temperature heating. This usually happens in a kiln. Clay must be fired in a kiln in order for it to turn into ceramic. A kiln can reach temperatures of 1300°C (2500°F)..

How long should greenware dry before firing? ›

After you've made your pot from clay it will be ready for its bisque firing once it gets to the bone dry stage (about 1 week after the making of it). Your pot needs to be bone dry to go into the kiln for the first firing to prevent it from exploding!

What is the process of drying ceramics? ›

Such a system can be as simple as bricks drying outside in the sun or can be the drying of materials in a closed oven with circulating hot air. The hot air passes over the surface of the ceramic causing evaporation of water at or near the surface to occur, as well as some water removal through capillary action.

How long to wait for glaze to dry before firing? ›

Glazes generally need between 1-7 days for thorough drying before firing, depending on several variables: Thickness of the glaze coating: A thicker glaze requires a longer drying time. Humidity and temperature: High humidity and low temperature decelerate evaporation.

How does the firing process work? ›

In other words, firing is "the final step in a fair and transparent process," as outlined below.
  1. Identify and Document the Issues. ...
  2. Coach Employees to Rectify the Issue. ...
  3. Create a Performance Improvement Plan. ...
  4. Terminate the Employee. ...
  5. Have HR Conduct an Exit Interview.

How is pottery fired today? ›

Typical ceramics firing occurs in two stages: bisque firing and glaze firing. During the first firing - bisque - greenware transforms into a durable, semi-vitrified porous state where it can be handled safely while being glazed and decorated. Carbonaceous materials are also burned out in this phase.

How long can pottery sit without being fired? ›

The size of your piece

If your pottery is half an inch thick or greater, then it is recommended to leave it to dry for up to three weeks. If you live in a humid climate and want to ensure that the clay is fully dried, then it is worth leaving pottery for an additional week to ensure it is completely dry.

What temperature do you fire greenware? ›

This means fire the clay to 04 (AROUND 1940-1945 degrees F.) to turn it from greenware to bisque. You do THIS 04 firing on SLOW speed. And then fire the low fire glazes to 06 (AROUND 1830-1835 degrees F.)

Can you fire pottery without a kiln? ›

Firing pottery without a kiln is a creative and adventurous endeavor, but it requires careful planning and experimentation. Whether you choose Raku firing, home oven firing, or pit firing, each method offers unique results that can add character to your pottery pieces.

How long should pottery dry before trimming? ›

So, To Review:

Be Thrown: 1 Day. Wait to be trimmed: 2-5 Days. Trimming & Handle Work 2 Days. Wait for a full kiln's worth of objects: 1-2 Weeks.

How to dry pottery without cracking? ›

Set pieces to dry in a climate-controlled room at around 70°F. Avoid direct sun, heaters, or drafts that desiccate the surface too quickly. Drape plastic wrap or damp cloths loosely over work if drying too fast. Turn pieces regularly as they dry to prevent uneven stresses.

Can you let pottery air dry? ›

Just make a “tent” of fabric or newsprint to keep out the unwelcome drafts and allow moisture to escape gradually. Some ware made from forgiving clay bodies can often dry in the open air, if there aren't any drafts to cause uneven drying or thin projections such as handles.

What is the first firing of clay called? ›

Usually, the first firing of clay is called bisque firing. Some people call it biscuit firing. In a studio setting, this usually means a cone temperature of a low of 08 to 04. This allows the clay piece to accept most studio glazes.

What happens if you glaze before firing? ›

If your piece is not dry it can “explode” in the kiln. Without glaze on the pieces, this doesn't hurt anything (except maybe neighboring pieces.) But if that piece were covered with glaze, the pieces would stick all over the kiln. Organics have a chance to burn off in the bisque firing, so they don't affect the glazes.

Why is my glaze not shiny after firing? ›

The dependence on cooling rate is why some glazes will end up matte when fired in one kiln and shiny in a different, faster cooling kiln.

What is the science behind firing pottery? ›

Other chemical changes take place during firing. These include burning off all organic matter often found in many clays, the decomposition of carbonates, which are common ingredients of many glazes, and further crosslinking of metakaolinite to give a three-dimensional network with the elimination of water.

How does fired up pottery work? ›

You will choose a piece of bisque to paint and use our interesting tools and techniques to do so. You will be able to use sea sponges, stencils, stamps, speckle glazes…and lots of other really cool stuff to design and decorate your “pottery”. Then you will leave it with us and we will clear glaze and fire your piece.

What are the firing cycles for ceramics? ›

The slow bisque goes at 80F/hr to 250, 200F/hr to 1000, 100F/hr to 1100, 180F/hr to 1695 and 80F/hr to for a 13-hour firing to 1945F. The fast bisque slims that to 10 hours by increasing the rate of rise at each step. Their slow 7-hour cone 04 glaze firing goes to 250F at 150F/hr, 1695F at 400F/hr and 1945F at 120F/hr.

What is the modern way of firing pottery wares? ›

Electric kilns are the most common way to fire your pottery. They are typically less expensive, and their built-in digital controls make them easy to use. Electric kilns are lined with insulating bricks and, depending on what style they are, can either be loaded from the top or from the front.

References

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