As my Facebook news feed fills with back to school photos and the days grow shorter and cooler, it feels as though summer is coming to a close. Luckily on the food front, we still have at least another month of delicious summer produce before we dive head first into butternut squash and root vegetable season. I’m celebrating this lovely time of year by wearing sundresses with cardigans (I’ve gotta get a bit more mileage out of my dresses before they get packed away for then next 6-8 months!) , taking an Italian language course, and by making one of my favorite Sicilian recipes: eggplant caponata – a stewed vegetable dish that can be served with everything from crostini to grilled meats. Caponata is extremely flavorful – Sicilians describe it as “agrodolce” (sweet and sour) but it’s also quite hearty and rich with notes of bitterness, salt and umami. The vibrant, contrasting flavors (typical of Sicilian cooking) make it satisfying and a delight to eat. Eggplants are at their peak from July through October, so now is the perfect time to try out this delicious and versatile dish, and make take a trip to Sicily if you’d like to try it first hand! You may find that is becomes a mainstay.
Eggplant in Sicily
Originally introduced to Sicily by the Arabs in the Middle Ages when the island was under Byzantine and Muslim rule, eggplant (aubergine here in England, melanzana in Italy) is a crucial part of Sicilian cuisine. You’ll find them in nearly every market, restaurant and home kitchen on the island. Sicilians refer to eggplant as the “meat of the earth” and treat it as such – grilling, frying or baking it as though it were indeed a piece of pork or chicken.
Ingredients in Eggplant Caponata
Caponata often incorporates whatever vegetables one has on hand. The only mainstays are eggplant, tomato in some form, some type of allium (anything in the garlic/onion family) and celery – beyond that, you can get creative! Throw in some zucchini, fresh tomato, or carrots – whatever you have in your crisper drawer. My recipe calls for bell pepper but you can definitely omit or substitute based on your preferences. Red onions and garlic were my alliums of choice but feel free to use scallions, shallots, Vidalias or any onion that strikes your fancy. I like to use tomato paste because you can cook it down to get a nice caramelized flavor, but most Sicilians would use a fresh tomato sauce or passata (tomato purée) – again, it’s up to you! I usually use small Italian eggplants but if you find a fun heirloom variety at the farmers market, go for it. Caponata always incorporates acid and sugar in some form – I used red wine vinegar and sugar, but this is, of course, flexible as well! Cider vinegar and honey, sherry vinegar and maple syrup, balsamic vinegar and brown sugar – use what suits you. Many recipes, including mine, call for capers, but if you aren’t a fan or can’t find them, you could substitute something else briny/salty such as olives or even anchovies. Dried fruit and nuts provide textural contrast in Caponata. I used pine nuts and raisins, but as you’ve probably guessed, substitutions are welcome. Cranberries and slivered almonds could be fun! It’s always nice to finish a rich, stewed dish like this with some fresh herbs. I used purple basil and parsley but mint would be lovely as well. One of the things that makes caponata so wonderful is that it’s endlessly riffable – you could make it 10 different times with 10 different, delicious results!
Recipe for Eggplant Caponata
½ - ¾ cup vegetable oil, for frying (or olive oil)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound eggplant, cut into ½ inch cubes
1 medium red onion, diced
3 ribs celery, diced
1 bell pepper, diced
4 large garlic cloved, minced
3 tablespoons tomato paste
½ cup pine nuts, toasted
½ cup raisins
2 tablespoons capers
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped basil
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
In a large, heavy bottomed skillet, heat ½ inch of vegetable oil (or olive oil). Working in batches, fry the eggplant in the oil, stirring occasionally until it is browned on all sides. When the eggplant is finished cooking remove it from the pan with a slotted spoon and on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Salt the fried eggplant immediately. Add more oil to the pan between batches so that you are always starting with about ½ an inch of oil in the pan. Note that the eggplant may soak up all the oil when you first add it to the pan, but it will release it as it begins to brown.
Once you’ve finished frying the eggplant, pour out any remaining frying oil and reserve for another use. Heat the pan over medium heat and add the olive oil and onions. Cook, stirring frequently until the onions just begin to take on color.
Add the celery, bell pepper, and garlic and cook for another 3-5 minutes, until the vegetables are slightly softened and aromatic.
Add the tomato paste and cook until it begins to darken in color and stick to the bottom of the pan. Deglaze with the vinegar, then stir in sugar, raisins, and capers.
Allow the mixture to come to a boil, then stir in the eggplant. Cook at a simmer for 3-4 minutes, stirring gently to avoid crushing the eggplant. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and transfer to a serving dish to cool.
Stir in toasted nuts and herbs before serving.
Would you like to travel to Sicily and taste this dish there? We can help with that! Remember that we are always available to you and your friends and family for custom trip planning to Italy. We are experts in creating custom travel itineraries and leading small group trips in Europe. Feel free to reach out via email — I'm always available to talk about travel!!
