Tomato-based pasta sauce can either be incredibly simple or very involved. Whether you’re making Marcella Hazan’s three-ingredient sauce or a loaded-up bolognese, it’s all about creating that perfect balance of flavors. Tasting, tweaking, and tasting again is key, as is having a little lineup of extras you can toss in to bring that special something.
Here are my favorite things to add to tomato sauce when it needs a little rounding out, whether I’m starting from scratch or jazzing up a store-bought jar:
If you’re missing umami
Add some anchovy paste, fish sauce, or parmesan cheese. (You can also add a parm rind, but try to add it early on.) All three of these bring that savory flavor your mouth craves. Tomato paste can also be added, but you need to brown in first. Already have a pot full of sauce? No problem, sauté a tablespoon in a separate pan, adding fresh herbs or a little onion if you like. Then, once it’s brick red, deglaze the pan with 1/4-1/2 cup of wine (depending on how much wine is in your sauce already) let a bit of the alcohol burn off, and pour it in your sauce.
If it’s feeling a little one-note
Toss in some fresh herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, or parsley. Also, never underestimate heat; red pepper flakes provide a bit of flavor diversity and help cut through fatty flavors. Plus they just make it look the part.
If the tomato flavor isn’t shining
Add a pinch of sugar. I realize this is a very controversial thing to say, but if your tomatoes simply aren’t reducing down to their sweet, jammy glory, I think it’s perfectly fine to “cheat” with a pinch or two of sucrose. Sugar also suppresses any bitter flavors that might be hanging out in the pot by way of burnt ingredients. If this sounds completely abhorrent to you, you can also roast any sub-par tomatoes under the broiler beforehand to caramelize their sugars before adding them to the pot.
If it’s tasting heavy and dull
Pour in some wine. Ideally, wine should be added early on, but it can also be incorporated as a last-minute flavor booster. Both red and white can add robust fruity flavor, depth, and a hint of acid to your sauce. If you don’t have any wine, or don’t want to use it, balsamic or red wine vinegar can give you similar, though not identical results.
If it needs a bit of body
Butter and cream both work, but dairy can dull bright herbs and other flavors. A cup of pasta water—particularly if it’s super-charged with semolina flour—can making your sauce thicker and creamier without any dairy.
Also, don’t underestimate the power of finishing. A drizzle of good olive oil, a few flakes of really good salt, and even more fresh herbs can round out your pasta meal with a bit of last-minute balance.
