Carol Savonen| Special to the Statesman Journal
Question: What is “early” vs. “late” cabbage? I see this mentioned in catalogs but don’t really get what it means.
Answer: When cabbages are classified as “early,” “mid-season” or “late,” these terms refer to when they are best planted and harvested during the growing season. Each have distinct life histories.
Early cabbage varieties are fast-growing, earlier maturing and smaller in size. These cabbages mature fast, and the heads burst quickly, so they need to be harvested as soon as they are mature.
Mid-season cabbages are larger, later to mature and must be well established before summer heat sets in. They don’t burst quickly.
Late cabbages, transplanted later than the others (out in June and July), can be harvested from late fall and winter into spring. They may grow more slowly to maturity with decreasing day length and hold out in the garden for a month or more.
How to grow: Mid-March though May is a good time to start early and mid-season cabbage seed indoors. Transplant cabbage starts, both early and mid-season starts, into the ground in May and June. Sow seed for late varieties in May, and transplant them out in June through July.
Transplants also can be purchased from your local nursery or garden store. Always select plants with stem diameters smaller than a lead pencil to reduce the risk of bolting. Set transplants outside during the day for a week to harden them before transplanting.
Cabbage thrives in a sunny, well-drained, loam soil heavily amended with organic matter. Cabbage are heavy feeders and require uniform moisture. Keep soil pH above 6.8 to avoid club root, a damaging fungal disease. Space plants about 15 to 18 inches apart for optimal growth. Hot caps or floating row covers help early cabbages thrive. Plus, floating row covers eliminate a lot of the pests.
Territorial Seed Company in Cottage Grove has a nice online guide to growing cabbage at territorialseed.com/product/growingguide14.
More from readers on winter hummingbirds
Dear Carol: I use Hottie hand warmers and bubble wrap on my bird feeder to keep it from freezing. It lasts all day.
Dear Carol: The hummingbirds really need our help this winter. I’ve been keeping my feeders out year-round for the last 10 years or so. My experience has been that when the temperature gets down into the mid-20s or lower (several times the past few weeks), an infrared heat bulb in a clamp-on light bulb socket kept within 12 to 24 inches from the feeders keeps them from freezing. I’ve used the alternating feeders, the trouble light method, etc., but this seems to work best. The heat tape creates a nuisance when refilling and/or cleaning the feeders.
In addition to the heated feeders you provided the information on (local Albany company!), there are also a number of birdbath heaters available that keep fresh water available, too, for all the birds. I still clean and refill mine at least once every day, as it has become a very “central” gathering place for all the birds and gets dirty quite quickly. Last week I sat and watched it for a few of hours one day and saw robins, flicker woodpeckers, towhees, doves (both Eurasian and Mourning), starlings, crows, hummingbirds, bushtit*, house finches and a Coopers Hawk all use the heated “tubby,” so I know it’s important, too. Thanks again for the fine article that will certainly help raise awareness about our bird buddies!
