Ruth Reichl’s Smart Tip for Better Pumpkin Pie (2024)

Emma Christensen

Emma Christensen

Emma is a former editor for The Kitchn and a graduate of the Cambridge School for Culinary Arts. She is the author of True Brews and Brew Better Beer. Check out her website for more cooking stories

published Nov 17, 2015

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Ruth Reichl’s Smart Tip for Better Pumpkin Pie (1)

I thought I knew pumpkin pie — I mean, you can’t really beat the classic — and then Ruth Reichl comes along and drops this bombshell on me, and now I feel like I’ve been lying to myself about the gloriousness of my pies for years. I would be disheartened if I weren’t so dang excited to bake more pie this Thanksgiving. Enough teasing — here’s what Ruth Reichl has to say on the subject of pumpkin pie.

Ruth Reichl’s Tip: Roast Your Pumpkin Purée

Spread your canned pumpkin purée on a baking sheet and roast it in a 400°F oven for a few minutes before carrying on with your pie recipe.

Why does she do this? Not only does roasting deepen the flavor of the pumpkin, but it bakes off some of the moisture in the purée, ensuring a more custard-like pie with less risk of a soggy crust.

It’s such a little thing — an “oh, by the way” tip that Ruth tosses to the reader between other stories in her book My Kitchen Year — but to me, it’s a total game-changer.

What Happened When I Tried It

I gave this tip a test run the other day and roasted a can of pumpkin purée for about 15 minutes. This was just long enough that the edges started to look a little dried out and I started to see a hint of toasty color on some of the ridges and peaks in the purée. The flavor after roasting had none of the raw squash flavor of purée straight from the can; it’s actually slightly richer and more buttery.

I wondered if adding sugar and spices would amp up the caramelized and roasted flavor even more, so I also experimented with roasting both plain purée and purée with sugar and spices already mixed in. After roasting, I added the sugar and spices to the plain purée and then tasted the two side-by-side. The first version — with sugar added after roasting — was good, but had an intense sugary sweetness; I tasted the sugar first and the pumpkin second. By contrast, I felt that the second version — the one roasted with the sugar already mixed in — seemed richer, more balanced, and more fully infused with spice flavor. I’ll be sticking with that second version on Thanksgiving.

I gleaned so very many good little tips from Reichl’s My Kitchen Year, but this one definitely takes first place. The difference between regular pie and a pie made with roasted purée is subtle, but I think it turns just a regular pumpkin pie into one that has everyone asking for the recipe.

Ruth Reichl’s Smart Tip for Better Pumpkin Pie (2024)

FAQs

Ruth Reichl’s Smart Tip for Better Pumpkin Pie? ›

Ruth Reichl's Tip: Roast Your Pumpkin Purée

What to add to pumpkin to make it taste better? ›

If you really want to go all out, you can even grate whole cinnamon sticks, ginger knobs, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice berries. It's definitely more work, but the intense spice flavors work wonders to enhance the dull flavor of canned pumpkin.

Does the toothpick test work for pumpkin pie? ›

You should also see that the filling has darkened and the texture of the pie should be a bit puffed up from when you put it in the oven. If you're still uncertain, stick a knife (or a toothpick) in the center and see if it comes out clean. You can also stick in an instant-read thermometer in the middle.

How much should a pumpkin pie juggle? ›

The outer edges of the pie should be firm while the center will be a little jiggly, but not sloshy or unsteady. As the old adage goes, "It needs to jiggle like Jell-O but not wiggle like a wave." If the entire pie is wobbly, continue baking. Use a piecrust shield if it's browning too fast.

How do you judge a pumpkin pie? ›

The Jiggle Test

The best way is to gently shake it: When the pie is done, it will jiggle just slightly in the center; however, your pie should not be liquidy in any way. This test is the best test to use if you want to avoid cracking the filling. How to Make a Pumpkin Pie Recipe from Fresh Pumpkin (No Can Needed!)

How can I enhance my pumpkin flavor? ›

Cook It on the Stove

Briefly cooking your canned pumpkin purée on the stove can help improve both the flavor and texture. This method helps reduce excess moisture, which gives the pumpkin a superior texture. It also releases the natural pumpkin flavor and helps reduce the metallic taste from the can.

What brings out pumpkin flavor? ›

Pumpkin spice (a.k.a. pumpkin pie spice) is an aromatic blend of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and ginger. Sometimes allspice is included. You can buy the spice blend at the store or use ingredients you already have on hand to make DIY pumpkin spice.

What temperature should pumpkin pie be cooked at? ›

The more diluted the egg mixture, the higher the doneness temperature will be. The perfect pull temperature for pumpkin pie is 175°F (79°C).

Can you overcook pumpkin pie? ›

Part of the challenge of baking this iconic holiday dessert is determining how to tell if your pumpkin pie is done. You have to get it right: If it's underdone, you have raw crust and gooey filling; if it's overdone, you have a cracked top and rubbery texture.

Why is my pumpkin pie still jiggly in the middle? ›

for pumpkin pie when the filling still ripples in the center. the pie is underbaked and the filling won't completely set up. when the center of the pie wobble slightly it will continue to bake.

Why is there a crack in my pumpkin pie? ›

Those cracks you see in your pie are the result of overcooked eggs, eggs that have tightened up so much, in an uneven way, that they've created fissures in the filling. Usually you'll notice cracks around the edge of the pie first, which makes sense; the edges cook more quickly than the interior.

How long should pumpkin pie sit out before serving? ›

If your homemade pumpkin pie has been refrigerated, it can safely sit at room temperature for up to two hours before serving. So, if fridge space is limited on the big day, or you simply prefer the taste of room-temperature pie, you can leave it out for a bit before you slice and serve.

What makes pumpkin pie taste so good? ›

The pie is generally flavored with pumpkin pie spice, a blend that includes cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves or allspice. The pie is usually prepared with canned pumpkin, but fresh-cooked pumpkin can be used.

Can you rebake a pumpkin pie that is undercooked? ›

Solution if it's too late: If the pie hasn't been out of the oven for too long, you can put it back in the oven. Cover the pie with foil and bake it at 425°F, checking after 15 minutes.

What makes a good pie pumpkin? ›

The best pumpkins for baking and cooking with are sweet, flavorful, and have smooth-textured flesh. In fact, pumpkin purée manufacturer Libby's breeds their own Select Dickinson pumpkins for their extremely smooth texture.

What to do with tasteless pumpkin? ›

I like to roast wedges of pumpkin which helps to reduce the moisture content, making it taste richer and sweeter. You can flavour the pumpkin at this point by rubbing it with a spice of choice. Place a couple of halved onions to cook with the pumpkin to either use in the soup or as a garnish.

How can I improve my pumpkin? ›

Always water plants well before and after planting. Pinch out the main stems once growth starts; this will encourage more lateral stems and give you a heavier crop of fruit. To encourage large pumpkins, allow only two to three to develop on each plant. Water plants thoroughly before planting and allow to drain.

How to eat pumpkin out of a can? ›

Mix a little into softened butter along with a bit of brown sugar and some warm spices (cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon). Spread on warm biscuits, or, whatever, just lick it off a spoon.

What cool things can you put on a pumpkin? ›

There are a variety of craft items you can use for decorating pumpkins. They include but are not limited to: painting, decoupage, hot glue, pom poms, stickers, vinyl, gems, feathers, and more. AND there are a few carving ideas in here, but they are fake pumpkins, so the experience is very different.

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