A GUIDE TO SEWING WITHDENIM& THICK FABRICS
1. Wash Your Fabrics
To minimise shrinkage & the fabric dye running.
2. Use the Right Needle:
You can buy a ‘denim’ needle for sewing denim & thickerfabrics.
If you’re using a standard needle make sure you’reusing at least a size 90/14 & for thicker denim use a 100/16.For a chambray or tencel denim style fabric an 80/12 universal needle will befine.
3. Use a Quality Thread:
Sewing Thread: Topstitching Thread:
But there is an effective & easy solution:Add a second spool of normal sewing thread through thesame needle eye.Take a look in your manual & use the same threading methodthey advise for using a twin needle, except thread the secondthread through the same needle eye as the first.
4. Use a Longer Stitch:
Straight Stitching:For general sewing, on my machine I use a 2.2 stitch length. On denim I like to use a 2.8-3 stitch length.
Topstitching: Use a longer stitch for topstitching. I like touse a 3.5-4.
5. Use a Small Hammer:
Yes, you heard that right: a hammer. The ladies in my Facebook group have a little chuckle when they see a hammer on my layout desk in photos.
The seams on denim can get quitethick and can be problematic especially when topstitching with skipped stitches & bent or broken needles.
An easy & effective solution is to give it a bit of a tap with the hammer. Put a protective piece of fabric between yourgarment & the hammer & give seams a few taps. I find thisvery helpful at the corners of the waistband & where thevertical seams meet the waistband & also at the hem.
Make a little tester & see what i mean. Note: do not hit your fabric too many times or hardor you will risk splitting the fibres& putting a hole in your work.
6. Use the Myterious Black Button or DIY Bumper:
It can be hard for your sewing machine to sew smoothly overbulky seams especially when topstitching hems & waistbands. Here are two easy solultions.
THE BLACK BUTTON: Have you noticed that mysterious black button on the side of your general sewing machine foot & wondered what it was for? Well, it's pretty much magic!! &helps you sew over bulky seams by levelling the foot & eliminating skipped stitches. Let's take a look.
Let's say you're sewing the hem and you need to sew over a thick, topstitched seam.
1) Sew up to the seam...
You will notice that the front of the foot begins to lift.
3) With the needle down, raise the presser foot.
4) Press the little black button... AND while holding it down, lower the presser foot. Once the presser foot is down, let go of the black button. This levels the presser foot.
5) Start sewing over the seam.
You will notice that the little black button is pushed in. After a few stitches, when you're past the bump (& you don't need it's magicany more) it will pop back out again.
6) See! Magic.
If your machine doesn't have one, don't worry. You can easy make your own and it's just as effective & will produce a gorgeous professional looking finish to your stitching.
DIY BUMPER: An easy & effectivesolutionis to make yourself a 'bumper'.
Notice in this first photo, that the machine foot is on anangle as it tries to sew over the bulky seam as I sew thehem. Often what happens next is skipped stitches.
SO HOW DO WE FIX IT? It's not as hard as you think.
Once you've reached the seam, raise the foot with theneedle down.
Next grab a scrap of the fabric you're using & fold it overa few times (I have ironed my fabric in half & then folded3 times).
Slip your new 'bumper 'under the back of the foot.
Notice how the bumper levels the foot again (the frontisn't angled up).
Now lower the needle & keep sewing to the next seam.
7. Go Slow!
Take your time when sewing denim especially if you’re new tothe experience. In some instances you may even need to takeyour foot off the pedal & hand turn your machine to get pasta tricky spot.
