The crusty ring‑shaped bagel —the word means “bracelet” in German —which was the everyday bread of the Jews in Eastern Europe, has become the most famous Jewish food in America and a standard American bread. Like challah, it is of South German origin, but it came into its own and took its definitive form in the Polish shtetl.
It was sold on the street by vendors with baskets or hanging on long sticks. Hawkers had to have a license. Illegal selling of bagels by children was common and viewed as respectable, especially by orphans helping their widowed mothers, but if they were caught by a policeman they would be beaten and their baskets, bagels, and linen cover would be taken away.
Because of their shape-‑with no beginning and no end‑‑bagels symbolize the eternal cycle of life. In the old days, they were supposed to be a protection against demons and evil spirits, warding off the evil eye and bringing good luck. For these reasons, they were served at circumcisions and when a woman was in labor and also at funerals, along with hard‑boiled eggs.
When the Jews left Eastern Europe in great masses for America, Canada and Europe, many sold bagels from pushcarts on the Lower East Side of Manhattan and in the East End of London. When my great‑uncle Jacques immigrated to New York from Syria at the turn of the century, the only jobs he could get were peddling door-to-door and selling bagels from a pushcart. He found this so demeaning that he migrated back to Egypt, where a large part of his family had settled. A month ago in Paris, his widow, Régine, told me of his difficulties in communicating in either English or Yiddish, and of his surprise when he first encountered bagels.
Although so many new varieties of bagels have now appeared in New York, purists will have only the original plain water bagels, which are made by throwing rings of risen dough into violently boiling water for a few seconds, then draining, cooling, and baking quickly till golden, shiny, and crisp. They are wonderful when very, very fresh and still spongy inside but quickly become tough and leathery, in which case the best thing is to cut them open and toast them. New York is said to make the best, supposedly because of the mineral content of their water.
Reprinted with permission from The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York,published by Knopf.
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FAQs
17th Century: Bagels Are Born out of Necessity
When did bagels become popular? ›
The bagel came into more general use throughout North America in the last quarter of the 20th century with automation.
What makes Jewish bagels different? ›
What makes a Jewish bagel different? Jewish bagels are typically boiled before baking, which gives a distinctly soft and chewy texture. They are then finished with various toppings like sesame and poppy seeds.
Why are bagels so popular? ›
Bagels gained popularity among the Jewish communities in Eastern Europe because of their accessibility and affordability, and as Jewish immigrants made their way to the United States, they brought their beloved bagels with them.
What is a Jewish bagel called? ›
A chewy yeast roll bearing similarity to the bagel, the bialy has a diameter of up to 15 centimetres (6 in). Unlike a bagel, which is boiled before baking, a bialy is simply baked, and instead of a hole in the middle it has a depression. It is also usually covered with onion flakes.
What are some fun facts about bagels? ›
Bagels are the only bread that is boiled before being baked. They are dipped in boiling water for approximately 3-5 minutes before going into the oven. Bagel making was once a four-man job: Two people would make the dough, giving bagels their shape; one person boiled them, and the fourth person baked them.
Are bagels healthier than bread? ›
Unfortunately there's no simple answer to this question. In terms of calories, on average one bagel has more calories than one slice of bread. However, if you choose to have a bagel with more fibre, this may help you feel fuller for longer and potentially reduce your snacking throughout the day.
Why are bagels not kosher? ›
Additionally, bagels are categorized as bread as far as kosher dietary law is concerned. Therefore, they cannot be certified kosher if they contain any dairy ingredients, as this would constitute dairy bread. There are many popular flavored bagels that are dairy and as such, cannot be certified kosher.
How do you say bagel in Jewish? ›
Which do you say, bagel or beigel? For the uninitiated, who have probably already given up, these variations are pronounced “baygel” and “bye-gal”. The former is considered more “westernised”, the latter more faithful to how it might have been said in Yiddish, though with a slight co*ckney twinge.
Why is it called Jewish bread? ›
The word challah may be derived from an ancient Hebrew word that meant “portion.” In Biblical times, Jews were to give a portion of their bread to the kohanim, or priests, every Sabbath.
According to research done by a gaming website, Betway, the state that consumes the most bagels is…. Hawaii? That's what they say, anyway. The average Hawaiian eats 142 bagels a year; second is Utah (?!), then Maryland.
What state is known for the best bagels? ›
New York stands tall as the nation's bagel empire for the second year in a row. The Bagel Apple brings home the gold in bagel Popularity, with locals and tourists alike seeking out the city's most iconic breakfast food.
Are bagels healthy yes or no? ›
Bagels can be healthy if made with whole grains, contain minimal fat and sugar, and are an appropriate portion size for your health goals. For a healthier choice, look for whole wheat, whole grain, or rye bagels. While bagels with cream cheese are delicious, traditional cream cheese is not necessarily healthy.
What is the difference between a Jewish bagel and a regular bagel? ›
A Jewish bagel weighs about three times as much as a non-Jewish bagel, and is about three times as dense. It doesn't have the airy, bread-like consistency that a non-Jewish bagel has. As my Jewish friends like to say (paraphrasing), "If I can throw it at your head and risk knocking you out, then it's a Jewish bagel."
What Jewish holiday do you eat bagels? ›
The breakfast meal for Yom Kippur is a joyous occasion, and the food choices can vary widely depending on cultural and personal preferences. However, some common elements often include: Bagels: Bagels are a staple at many breakfast meals and are often served with cream cheese and smoked salmon (lox).
Are Jewish bagels toasted? ›
Some Jewish people toast their bagels (especially if they are frozen rounds of bread dough pretending to be bagels) and some don't. Just like everyone else.
Which came first, donut or bagel? ›
In 2013, a book of recipes belonging to Baroness Dimsdale surfaced, revealing a detailed doughnut recipe from as early as 1800, referred to as the "Hertfordshire nut." On a parallel culinary journey, the bagel emerged in Jewish communities in Poland around 1610.
When did people start putting cream cheese on bagels? ›
In New York City circa 1900, a popular combination consisted of a bagel topped with lox, cream cheese, capers, tomato, and red onion. The combination of a bagel with cream cheese has been promoted to American consumers in the past by American food manufacturers and publishers.
When did Mcdonalds start bagels? ›
1998 - The original release of McDonald's Bagels!! 😎🤘🏼 sharing an original translite menu sign of mine! I started with the ham egg and cheese bagel meal.
When did everything bagels become popular? ›
According to History, Polish Jewish immigrants brought bagels to New York City in the early 1900s. Then, sometime during the '70s and '80s, the everything bagel was added to the flavor roster. It quickly exploded in popularity, and there are many who claim to be the first to create the iconic taste.
